Obviously the first approach would be to grow your own. So to start let's mention urban farmers it's a great movement and one I hope grows from strength to strength. Here is a directory of community gardens in Australia. Get involved.
But this article is focused on growing food in a hostile environment.
My personal experience has been that automated growing systems are much less labour intensive than ploughing the land. Particularly with weeds and pests. I know that our approach to the management of land is partly to blame for where we are today. However, the reality is that for me to survive in a limited space, in a cool (currently) climate under a rougher environment requires a different approach.
The predominant trend here is indoor farming, there are a lot of innovations going on. There is however a drawback, they require electrical power. Growing indoors does result in less light.
We were fortunate enough to buy a North facing house. That is important in the Southern Hemisphere. I had no idea the difference it would make to our heating bills.
Roof top
Using tough plants on the roof would shade it as well. However, the challenge is to provide a medium for the plants to grow in. Rather than laying expensive systems why not go with a light porous cover (say hessian, or shade cloth) over the roof and then place gutters/pipes along and grow plants that naturally spread. The gutter can be filled with vermiculite and embed a weeping hose. Another option would be to use plastic pots and cut out holes in long pipes running hydroponic/aquaponic water through it. The benefit is that less water would be exposed to heat and there would be less evaporation.The roof is shaded, the house is cooler and there is not excessive weight on the structure.
The issue would then (for metal roofs) aligning things so that the walking lanes were supported correctly.
Rooftop edible plants
Purslane
Vertical gardens
Vertical gardens will shade the walls reducing the temperature of the wall. Plywood and gutters do a nice job of a cheap vertical garden. Vertical gardens are fine in winter, when the sun is at an angle, but not so good in summer when the sun is positioned vertically. The plants at the top shade those below. So there needs to be some thought put into what types of plants should be grown at various levels.
The additional problem is the house eves which in summer will completely shade the crop.
A better design for all year round growing is then to have an angle in the wall. That way, winter or summer all the plants are exposed to light.
This would make it difficult to access the plants at the top of the wall. So the ideal arrangement might be to angle away from the wall and the plants at the top can be cucumbers that will naturally hang produce down into the space beneath.
Having access to walk in behind then means an easy way to pick produce.
This would make it difficult to access the plants at the top of the wall. So the ideal arrangement might be to angle away from the wall and the plants at the top can be cucumbers that will naturally hang produce down into the space beneath.
Having access to walk in behind then means an easy way to pick produce.
Greenhouse
Nice small design with vents at the top;
Where you can find them get mirrors. Put them on the side receiving the sun in winter. They will reflect light across to the other side of the greenhouse.
It's called a Walipini. The problem I see in this is the shading of the walls.
It's called a Walipini. The problem I see in this is the shading of the walls.
Another version from China is built into the sides of hills.
From this link.
Bush food
Before I finish with where to grow the food, I should mention another option worth considering. If you are near any form of wilderness why not consider planting in the wilderness? This would be controversial, but the reality is that under climate change vegetation is going to change dramatically anyway. Invasive species are a huge problem, but there are species of plants that are adapted to hostile environments and can provide food.
By nature these are not fast growing species, if you were going to consider this approach you would need to start a long time in advance of when the trouble begins. Use GPS to record where you have planted.
Most people in a survival situation competing for food in the wilderness will not recognize many of the plants that I would consider feasible in the coming environment. Many survivalists are assuming they can take their guns into the forest and simply hunt.
Heat
In addition, in a little sun-room I setup a hydroponics system that is currently just being run off Thrive (the fertilizer). Because the system sits on small tanks of water there is good thermal mass for winter. Here is my current crop, (Southern Hemisphere 34.4500° S, 150.4500° E. Middle of winter June 17, no heating). The tomatoes are flowering.
Interesting generalized chart...
As an example, Boston lettuce (as well as other lettuce cultivars) forms full leafy heads when the daily growing temperature is in the 10 to 15oC (50-60 oF) range. It is based on temperature not photo period. Photo period will determine flowering.
Ventilation
Ventilation really depends on location. Obviously natural cross-ventilation is best. A tunnel with open ends and light shafts would work. During heat waves the ends would be closed and opened at night. C02 is heavier than air so that should affect the design.
Automated systems require power, if that was the case a solar powered fan could be used. External air could be pumped in through a channel in the ground (to cool it) to the apex of the grow room. That way fresh air would displace C02 from the top of the room.
Automated systems require power, if that was the case a solar powered fan could be used. External air could be pumped in through a channel in the ground (to cool it) to the apex of the grow room. That way fresh air would displace C02 from the top of the room.
Lighting
There are many issues here depending on your environment and how much natural light you get.
A balcony facing east or west would receive at least periods of light. That could be maximized by extending this idea to have a vertical hanging wall. Assuming decent anchor points.
A balcony facing North (Southern Hemisphere) or South (Northern Hemisphere) would get good light in winter, for a hanging wall of planters.
You would probably want to use a very light media mix. Another idea mentioned above is to use mirrors or reflective insulation to maximize the light in the space.
Assuming a source of seeds, you can grow sprouts, without light.
Piping sunlight indoors is much cheaper. However, by lighting the indoors the interior temperature must not be affected.
Growing indoors has proven to be successfully done via fibre optic cables. Using a heliostat outside to capture the light and concentrate it into fibre optic cables is feasible, but expensive.
A better approach would be to use light tubes (skylight). If there is a vertical shaft then the top can be sealed with perspex and the sides lined with silver sarking. Even corners can be negotiated with angled mirrors. Frosted glass or a Fresnel lens diffuser could be used at the interior end to disperse the light. One shaft would not be sufficient. The design of the shaft top would be important to maximize the light, while requiring minimal automation.
Aquaponics/hydroponics
In terms of hydroponics the challenge would be the nutrients. When the global logistics system breaks down then sourcing the hydroponic nutrients would be a problem. I have tried worm compost tea and it works. But there are special engineering requirements, also you can’t run this indoors - it stinks!That is what makes aquaponics so compelling. A protein source that produces nutrients suitable for plant growth and doesn’t smell.
Large tanks require large grow beds
http://www.instructables.com/id/Ultimate-Auto-Wicking-Garden/?ALLSTEPS#more-anchor
Plants
There is obviously a huge variety on offer. What I want to focus on is plants for special needs.Fast growing (from this site)
If the need arises where there is a breakdown in supply you will be reliant on your stored food. Anything planted at a time like this needs to grow fast. The fastest will be Azolla (below)
RADISHES
One of the fastest growing vegetables are radishes. Most varieties will be ready for harvest in just 25 to 30 days after planting. The Daikon radishes are more suitable for drying. These like cooler weather.
One of the fastest growing vegetables are radishes. Most varieties will be ready for harvest in just 25 to 30 days after planting. The Daikon radishes are more suitable for drying. These like cooler weather.
GREEN ONIONS
While it can take 6 months for onion bulbs to mature, the green onion stalks can be harvested after just 3 or 4 weeks. You can also grow onion microgreens and have baby onion greens in two to three weeks.
While it can take 6 months for onion bulbs to mature, the green onion stalks can be harvested after just 3 or 4 weeks. You can also grow onion microgreens and have baby onion greens in two to three weeks.
LETTUCE
Leaf lettuce such as Romaine can begin to be harvested about 30 days after planting. Cut the leaves once they reach at least 3 inches.
Leaf lettuce such as Romaine can begin to be harvested about 30 days after planting. Cut the leaves once they reach at least 3 inches.
BABY CARROTS
Baby carrots can be harvested after about 30 days. Other carrot varieties may take between 50 and 80 days to mature.
Baby carrots can be harvested after about 30 days. Other carrot varieties may take between 50 and 80 days to mature.
SPINACH
Spinach is ready in as little as 4 to 6 weeks after planting. You should eat spinach with plenty of yoghurt in your diet due to the oxalic acid.
Spinach is ready in as little as 4 to 6 weeks after planting. You should eat spinach with plenty of yoghurt in your diet due to the oxalic acid.
KALE & OTHER LEAFY GREENS
Kale, mustard greens and watercress are just a few delicious, super healthy greens that are fast growers. Most take about 50 to 65 days to mature, but baby leaves can be picked as early as 25 days.
Kale, mustard greens and watercress are just a few delicious, super healthy greens that are fast growers. Most take about 50 to 65 days to mature, but baby leaves can be picked as early as 25 days.
PEAS
Snow peas take only about 10 days to germinate and are ready for harvest in about 60 days.
Snow peas take only about 10 days to germinate and are ready for harvest in about 60 days.
BUSH BEANS
Most varieties of bush beans are ready to harvest within 40 to 65 days from planting.
Most varieties of bush beans are ready to harvest within 40 to 65 days from planting.
TURNIPS
Turnip roots are ready for harvest after about 60 days, however the highly edible leaves can be harvested in only 40 days. Suitable for dehydrating.
Turnip roots are ready for harvest after about 60 days, however the highly edible leaves can be harvested in only 40 days. Suitable for dehydrating.
CUCUMBER
Most varieties of cucumbers can be harvested about 50 to 70 days after planting.
Most varieties of cucumbers can be harvested about 50 to 70 days after planting.
SQUASH
Many varieties of squash, including zucchini, are usually ready after about 70 days. For best flavor, harvest squash when they are still small. Zucchini is great, 1 plant produces a lot of food. Excellent for dehydrating.
Many varieties of squash, including zucchini, are usually ready after about 70 days. For best flavor, harvest squash when they are still small. Zucchini is great, 1 plant produces a lot of food. Excellent for dehydrating.
The following are some of the fastest growing fruit trees. But nothing in this group is going to help you in the short term.
Peaches
Coconut
Apple
Apricot
Pear
Cherry
Low light plants
- Lettuce
- Arugula
- Spinach
- Broccoli *
- Green onions
- Cabbage *
- Parsley
- Sorrel
- Garlic
- Mint
- Collards
- Endive
- Cress
- Cauliflower *
- Peas *
- Currants
- Pak Choy
- Beets *
- Kohlrabi *
- Brussels Sprouts
- Mustard greens
- Thyme
- Coriander
- Tarragon
- Radishes
- Cardamom
- Potatoes *
- Rhubarb *
- Swiss Chard
- Kale
- Turnips *
- Carrots *
- Sweet potatoes and yams *
- Gooseberries
- Cilantro
- Dill
- Lemon Balm
- Strawberries *
- Beans *
- Blackberries and raspberries *
* Will tolerate light shade
Quinoa
Quinoa
Is a special plant in its own league, because it can handle saline soils. (link) In a world with rising sea levels it may be just what is required for some areas.
Grow media
There are lots of options but the sustainable one is Coco Peat / Coco Coir
Photo-period
The photo-period is essential for flower formation. LEDs could supplement the light period, provided that the logistics chain stays viable.
Mushrooms
For those with no space to garden, growing mushrooms to gain a large return in a small space to produce. Exotic mushrooms such as oyster and shiitake, make sense because they can be grown indoors without soil. Oyster mushrooms, for example, produce about 25 pounds per square foot of growing space in one years time. At current price of $ 6 per pound, that's $ 15,000 worth of mushrooms from a 10'x10 'space! Exotic mushrooms not travel, so small local growers will always be far ahead of producers. On our local Saturday market, the oyster mushrooms are the first items to sell out.Aquatic edible plants
Before a list is dumped there is one that deserves special mention, Azolla. From this link;
...research shows that it is possible to grow all the food a human needs in an area of about two hundred square meters – less than one hundredth of the area that the average American’s food production occupies today.
It requires relatively low light and doesn't handle extreme temperatures. Apparently Azolla is a bit of a super food. On top of that under ideal conditions it can double its biomass in two days, which makes it one of the world’s fastest growing plants.
Here are some others;
Deep water
Aethionema Coridifolium - Lebanese Cress
Edible Taro
Eleocharis dulcis - Chinese Water Chestnut
Hydrocotyle asciatica - Gotu Kola
Ipomoea Aquatica - Kang Kung/ Asian Water Spinach
Mentha Aquatica - Water Mint
Nasturtium Officinale - Watercress
Tulbaghia Violacea - Society Garlic
Shallow water - 1 foot
Oenanthe javanica Water Parsley
Aethionema Coridifolium - Lebanese Cress
Edible Taro
Eleocharis dulcis - Chinese Water Chestnut
Hydrocotyle asciatica - Gotu Kola
Ipomoea Aquatica - Kang Kung/ Asian Water Spinach
Mentha Aquatica - Water Mint
Nasturtium Officinale - Watercress
Tulbaghia Violacea - Society Garlic
Shallow water - 1 foot
Oenanthe javanica Water Parsley
Animals
Firstly a vegetarian production system is preferable. The reason for this is it is a lot easier to protect against predators. Growing animals for food is going to mean protecting against feral cats and dogs. Don't underestimate what a problem wild dogs will be. Feral cats are a problem for baby chickens and ducks. Dogs are a problem for everything.
In terms of killing animals for food, I am teaching my kids to respect the animal, give it a good life, and thank it for giving up its life. The reason I am teaching them that, is that they will have to live through the collapse. Their circumstance will be such that they will be forced to, at times, be opportunistic. Given that, I would hope that they can understand and respect the process. The problem with traditional farm animals is that their method of releasing body heat will probably mean that they die off before we do.
There is a new breed of chicken that has no feathers, so it would have much better heat regulation. There are drawbacks however, it gets sun-burnt and breeding is a problem.
Bantam chickens having smaller bodies regulate their temperature better than large fowl. Consequently, they do not produce comparable quantities of eggs or meat.
On this site you can select breeds by heat tolerance.
Here are some ideas for keeping chickens cool in hot weather.
Here is a list of smaller breeds
Leghorns-
Weight: 4.5 pounds (standard) 1.75 pounds (bantam)
Eggs: One of the best layers you can find of medium white eggs (lay the eggs you buy in the store.)
Maturity: Very early
Mothering: Doesn’t brood at all
Temp: Not cold hardy does better in heat
Looks: http://www.feathersite.com/Poultry/CGK/L...
Americana-
Weight: 5.5 lb
Eggs: Great egg layer of medium sized blue/green eggs
Maturity: Moderately early
Mothering: Great brooder and mother
Temp: They are cold hardy
Looks: http://www.feathersite.com/Poultry/CGA/A... You have to scroll down past all the written things to look at the pictures on feathersite.
Dorking-
Weight: 6.5 pounds (standard) 1 pounds (bantam)
Eggs: Good layers of medium cream eggs.
Maturity- slow to mature
Mothering: Great moms
Temp: More cold hardy
Looks- http://www.feathersite.com/Poultry/CGD/D...
Rhode Island Red-
Weight: 6.5 pounds (standard) 2 pounds (bantam)
Eggs: One of the best layers of large brown eggs
Maturity: depends on the strain. Some people say that there’s grow very quickly but mine tend to start laying eggs around one year of age.
Mothering: Does happen but very rarely
Temp: Cold hardy but some roosters can have trouble with their combs
Looks: http://www.feathersite.com/Poultry/CGP/R...
Black Austrop-
Weight: 6.5 pounds (standard) 2 pounds (bantam)
Eggs: Great layers of medium to large brown eggs
Maturity- Early
Mothering: Good
Temp:
Looks: http://www.feathersite.com/Poultry/CGA/L...
(This is one of my favorite breeds. My Black Austrop pullets are so sweet.)
Silkes-( I don’t consider this a good laying breed at all I just listed it because a few people did and you may want to know more about them. They are known to be very sweet birds.)
Weight: 2.2 pounds
Eggs: Very tiny and not laid that often
Maturity: Slow
Mothering: One of the best you can get
Temp: They have feathers on their legs and feet so they shouldn’t be walking in mud.
Looks: http://www.feathersite.com/Poultry/CGP/S...
Polish-
Weight: 4.4 pounds
Eggs: Depends on the strain that you purchase but they are small and white
Mothering- They are commonly known not to go broody but, it isn’t unheard of.
Temp-They have lots of fancy feathering so they shouldn’t be kept in muddy or foul weather.
Looks: http://www.feathersite.com/Poultry/CGP/P...
Champine-
Weight- 5 pounds
Eggs: Okay layer of medium white eggs
Maturing: Fast
Mothering- They don’t brood
Temp- Are known to get frostbite easier then other breeds
Looks: http://www.feathersite.com/Poultry/CGA/C...
Pendesenca
Weight: 4 pounds
Eggs: Small to med. Great layers of chocolate brown eggs
Maturing: slow
Mothering: Good
Temp: Good in extreme heat
Looks: http://www.feathersite.com/Poultry/CGP/P...
In terms of killing animals for food, I am teaching my kids to respect the animal, give it a good life, and thank it for giving up its life. The reason I am teaching them that, is that they will have to live through the collapse. Their circumstance will be such that they will be forced to, at times, be opportunistic. Given that, I would hope that they can understand and respect the process. The problem with traditional farm animals is that their method of releasing body heat will probably mean that they die off before we do.
Fish
Tilapia will survive tropical conditions. Tilapia Rendalli (Red Breasted Tilapia) in particular because you can feed them Kikuyu grass. Having lived with Kikuyu for many years the opportunity to feed it to something seems like justice. Unfortunately for me purchase, possession or sale of Tilapia comes with an $11,000 fine in NSW Australia.
Looks like it is going to be yellow belly.
Having tanks underground would give better diversity and water temperature. However, it requires stronger pumps to bring the waste water to the growbeds.
Looks like it is going to be yellow belly.
Having tanks underground would give better diversity and water temperature. However, it requires stronger pumps to bring the waste water to the growbeds.
Chickens and Ducks
Let's start by saying ducks are more robust, and better value considering their ability to forage for food. They eat more, but produce better quality (as in nutrition) eggs. They are much better suited to harsh environments particularly if you include a pond into your aquaponic setup. Most domesticated breeds of ducks do not need their wings clipped. Mallards do require clipping.There is a new breed of chicken that has no feathers, so it would have much better heat regulation. There are drawbacks however, it gets sun-burnt and breeding is a problem.
Bantam chickens having smaller bodies regulate their temperature better than large fowl. Consequently, they do not produce comparable quantities of eggs or meat.
On this site you can select breeds by heat tolerance.
Here are some ideas for keeping chickens cool in hot weather.
Here is a list of smaller breeds
Leghorns-
Weight: 4.5 pounds (standard) 1.75 pounds (bantam)
Eggs: One of the best layers you can find of medium white eggs (lay the eggs you buy in the store.)
Maturity: Very early
Mothering: Doesn’t brood at all
Temp: Not cold hardy does better in heat
Looks: http://www.feathersite.com/Poultry/CGK/L...
Americana-
Weight: 5.5 lb
Eggs: Great egg layer of medium sized blue/green eggs
Maturity: Moderately early
Mothering: Great brooder and mother
Temp: They are cold hardy
Looks: http://www.feathersite.com/Poultry/CGA/A... You have to scroll down past all the written things to look at the pictures on feathersite.
Dorking-
Weight: 6.5 pounds (standard) 1 pounds (bantam)
Eggs: Good layers of medium cream eggs.
Maturity- slow to mature
Mothering: Great moms
Temp: More cold hardy
Looks- http://www.feathersite.com/Poultry/CGD/D...
Rhode Island Red-
Weight: 6.5 pounds (standard) 2 pounds (bantam)
Eggs: One of the best layers of large brown eggs
Maturity: depends on the strain. Some people say that there’s grow very quickly but mine tend to start laying eggs around one year of age.
Mothering: Does happen but very rarely
Temp: Cold hardy but some roosters can have trouble with their combs
Looks: http://www.feathersite.com/Poultry/CGP/R...
Black Austrop-
Weight: 6.5 pounds (standard) 2 pounds (bantam)
Eggs: Great layers of medium to large brown eggs
Maturity- Early
Mothering: Good
Temp:
Looks: http://www.feathersite.com/Poultry/CGA/L...
(This is one of my favorite breeds. My Black Austrop pullets are so sweet.)
Silkes-( I don’t consider this a good laying breed at all I just listed it because a few people did and you may want to know more about them. They are known to be very sweet birds.)
Weight: 2.2 pounds
Eggs: Very tiny and not laid that often
Maturity: Slow
Mothering: One of the best you can get
Temp: They have feathers on their legs and feet so they shouldn’t be walking in mud.
Looks: http://www.feathersite.com/Poultry/CGP/S...
Polish-
Weight: 4.4 pounds
Eggs: Depends on the strain that you purchase but they are small and white
Mothering- They are commonly known not to go broody but, it isn’t unheard of.
Temp-They have lots of fancy feathering so they shouldn’t be kept in muddy or foul weather.
Looks: http://www.feathersite.com/Poultry/CGP/P...
Champine-
Weight- 5 pounds
Eggs: Okay layer of medium white eggs
Maturing: Fast
Mothering- They don’t brood
Temp- Are known to get frostbite easier then other breeds
Looks: http://www.feathersite.com/Poultry/CGA/C...
Pendesenca
Weight: 4 pounds
Eggs: Small to med. Great layers of chocolate brown eggs
Maturing: slow
Mothering: Good
Temp: Good in extreme heat
Looks: http://www.feathersite.com/Poultry/CGP/P...
Goats
Goats are tough and will adapt, but they require a lot of planning. (link)
Insects
What may currently seem unpalatable may well have to be reconsidered. It is actually becoming its own fad, and the options are growing.
From insectsAreFood;
From insectsAreFood;
100 grams of cricket contains: 121 calories, 12.9 grams of protein, 5.5 g. of fat, 5.1 g. of carbohydrates, 75.8 mg. calcium, 185.3 mg. of phosphorous, 9.5 mg. of iron, 0.36 mg. of thiamin, 1.09 mg. of riboflavin, and 3.10 mg. of niacin.
Compare that with ground beef, which, although it contains more protein, about 23.5 g. to be exact, it has 288.2 calories and an enormous amount of fat, 21.2 grams worth.
Crickets are 500% more efficient feeders than are cattle, and reproduce much (much) quicker. An added benefit is that they can be raised from plant waste.
This girl has the right idea.
This girl has the right idea.
Reptiles
Keep them outside in the heat, feed them the rats. However, it is not without risk. The meat has to be frozen and well cooked in order to kill the bacteria and parasites. Also heavy metals accumulate in reptiles from polluted areas.
A single failure could destroy the community so no room for error, 2 or 3 separate concurrent systems at different locations.
Survival during summer is then about how much preparation was done during winter. Bottling and drying, just like it used to be done for winter.
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